Byron Bay is a place that nature has been kind to.  Gifted with timber, gold, world-class surf breaks, and mild temperatures.   Coastal utopia where the sea doesn’t drop below a comfortable 18 degrees.  Steeped in history, this Northern NSW town personifies hedonism and escapism.  Unconventionality is the plat de jour.

Why do people swarm here?

Was it the 1973 Nimbin Aquarius Festival?  Was it Crocodile Dundee’s producer John Cornell buying up the local pub?  Or was it the migration of cruisey longboarders in the ’60s?  Something has elevated this Aussie seaside town into a swarming honeypot site.

COVID restrictions have hindered overseas travel and Australian interstate borders remain closed.  So, confined to our own States, many have embraced the idea of re-discovering the charismatic beachside haven that is Byron Bay.  Visitor numbers may well be up, but is it at Byron Bays’ expense?  Has ‘The Bay’ lost its Byron Feeling?

Cheer up, slow down and chill out

19 years on from my first visit to Byron and the impact of over-tourism is obvious.  Even before we’re close enough to smell the Chai Latte’s, we’re stuck at a crawl with hordes of others with the same idea. Cheer up, slow down and chill out. An ironic slogan considering the Sydney-Esque traffic jam we were currently sitting in.

The disappointment is not dissimilar to that of landing in Koh Samui 15 years after my first trip.  The laid-back, calm energy of locals was replaced with chaos. Neurotic, nervous energy bubbled through the crowds as a new type of visitor fossicked for a good time holiday. Where was the unique, edgy passion that drove McDonald’s out of town and kept it out? It seemed to me that Subway and Pizza Hut had crept in, giving off a mass mainstream beach-style vibe.  Less Low Key, more Low Budget. 

As the welcome sign encouraged, we came to Byron to slow down and chill out, but has Byron taken ‘slow down’ to a new level? Everything takes so long. If I’d spent as much time on a deck chair as I did in queues, I could have speed-read my way through War and Peace. Queuing in traffic. Queuing for the toilet and to get into bars, restaurants, and cafes. Even queuing at the bakery and for takeout. The sign should read, Take a deep breath, smile and get ready to queue.

Change is the law of life

Cape Byron was once occupied by the Arakwal People of the Bundjalung Nation. Known as Cavanbah which means meeting place in the Bundjalung language.  Today it’s more of a designer-label-clad cafe set than a local tribe meeting to fish during a mullet run. It’s not a surprise that the town and its attracted crowds have changed over time. In the words of John F. Kennedy, ‘For time and the world do not standstill’.  Byron has evolved and will continue to do so, the alternative is to stagnate.

Having at last found a smaller, quieter cafe, I sat with a coffee and questioned whether I was being fair to Byron.  Had Byron changed that much, or had I?  My last visit was in 2002 as an impressionable backpacker.  I was young.  I was naive in the sense that I hadn’t travelled much, and I was innocent with minimal expectations.  Having landed in Brisbane I’d only seen a couple of Aussie beaches.  Being a seaside girl from Lyme Regis in the UK, I was glad to leave the city lights of Brisbane behind. I’d found Byron and was completely hooked by its sunshine and endearing local buzz. 

Returning 18 years later, I don’t think I’ve changed that much, but my expectations definitely have.  10 years of living on Manly Beach has spoilt me.  With over 35 of the world’s best beaches within 20km of home, the Northern Beaches has lifted the bar.  18 years on and with the privilege of having visited remote and unique locations, my sparkly illusion of Byron as a paradise has dimmed.

Will I return?

The truth is I don’t think so, well at least not in a hurry.  For me, the expectation didn’t live up to the reality.  The authentic, creative, artistic, hippie vibe I was after did not deliver.  The impact of over-tourism was obvious.  How can it not be when a private hostel room is demanding $400 a night?  The relaxing serenity I was after materialised as anxious frustration.

So, has the Bay lost its ‘Byron Feeling’. I’d say it depends on what the ‘Byron Feeling’ means is to you in the first place.  For me sadly it has.  Go visit and find out for yourself.  Sarah Reid has also written a great piece on how to explore Byron like a local. Here are my 5 pieces of advice to get the best out of your Byron Bay stay:

1. Spend local 

Always passionate about minimising tourism leakage as much as possible I love that there are many local options in Byron. Whether it be eating, drinking or shopping be sure to research where your tourism dollar is going.

2. Avoid the school holidays

Avoid the crowds.  An obvious tip but one we forgot!  If you’re not looking for a quieter holiday try shoulder season or winter months.

3. Book ahead

Byron Bay is so busy that restaurants, bars, and activities get booked up months in advance.  For a less frustrating trip plan ahead and book

4. Walk

The traffic is insane and only a couple of kilometers could take you hours.  Ditch the car and get some exercise.

5. Get out and explore

Byronshire is beautiful with so many quieter areas to explore.  Leave ‘The Bay’ and explore outside of just the town.