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When to visit Sydney

August 17, 2019 by cbp Leave a Comment

Often mistaken as the capital city of Australia there isn’t a right or wrong time to visit Sydney. Known as “The Harbour City” or “Emerald City” it’s often ranked among the “World’s Most Liveable Cities”.  From rugged cliff-top coastal walks to sandy stretches of surf beach to calm harbour bays. Funky hip graffiti street art to the National Art Gallery. Casual breakfast cafes to waterfront hatted lunch spots. This pearl of a city has enough to keep you occupied whether you visit Sydney for 48 hours or longer.

With a calendar of events throughout the year, it can be confusing when to visit. To visit Sydney and epereince the city as a local here are my favourite times. Each of these months provides very different and authentic experiences. It comes down to preferences and what you want whilst visiting Sydney.

Visit Sydney in the Summer; Grab your Santa hat it’s Christmas down under

As an ex-pat from the UK I’m used to rugged up Christmases. Think spicy mulled wine, roaring log fires and if lucky, snow falling. A Sydney Christmas is the extreme. Hot, bright and in the middle of the summer holidays Christmas in Sydney is the party to end all parties. 

Even though the fairy tale white Christmas is far from reality, Sydney still dresses up. Visit the city’s largest Christmas tree, centre stage in Martin Place and as dark falls enjoy city lights. Australia’s largest Christmas event, Carols in the Domain is a Sydney institution. Whilst picnic blankets scatter the park, homegrown stars perform on stage. The crowd cracks open tinnies and pop champagne corks as they enter the Christmas spirt. 

If the pub scene is your thing the Manly charity Santa pub crawl is another event that locals flock to. 500 Santa Claus, Mrs Claus, reindeer, elves, snowmen and Xmas trees turn up to raise money for Stewart House. Whilst visiting several of Manly’s pubs and hotels the crowd spreads Christmas cheer. Even if dressing up and a full pub crawl isn’t your thing it‘s worth popping in to soak up the atmosphere.

On Christmas Day…

…grab your Santa hats, floating flamingo, togs and eski (cool bag to non-Aussies!) and head to the beach. Most Eastern and Northern suburb beaches are hives of activity throughout Christmas day. Unlike the UK the majority of restaurants, cafes, pubs and shops are open. Convenient when you’ve run out of prawns, ice or beer! The party continues into the evening. Wafts of sausages sizzling on bbqs and competitive games of finska make for a fun Christmas evening.

Boxing Day starts with a swim, surf or beachside walk to dust those cobwebs away.  Next up is the Rolex Sydney to Hobart yacht race. This nautical spectacle turns Sydney Harbour into a hive of activity both on the water and in the air. Boats of all sizes head out to escort the yachts through the ‘Heads’ and helicopters dot the sky. Either North or West Head are great spots to take in the views. If you fancy being in and amongst it book a ferry or boat trip.

If you think you’ve seen fireworks…

…wait until you experience Sydney Harbour on New Year’s Eve. The display Sydney puts on to say farewell to the old year and welcome the new is nothing short of spectacular. Free options come with consequences ranging from long queues to alcohol-free. I would recommend either a ticketed event or a boat on the harbour, these come at a price but are definitely worth it. We’re talking a once in a life-time experience.

If you can handle the heat, this time of year is a vibrant party atmosphere. Parks, waterfronts and beaches burst with people of all ages eating, chilling, drinking and swimming. Corporate life grinds to a halt, family and friendship are the centre of everything.

The finale to the summer holidays…

…the 26th January, Australia Day is a controversial celebration. This is the official national day of Australia. It marks the anniversary of the 1788 arrival of the First Fleet of British ships at Port Jackson. To claim the land Governor Arthur Phillip raised the Flag of Great Britain at Sydney Cove. Whatever your views there is no escaping that the majority of the country joins in.  Locals find every piece of Australian paraphernalia they can and use the day as an excuse to get the family together again, start drinking beer at 10 am and celebrate being Aussie.

Now you’ve partied hard for a month it’s time to jump on a plane, go home and rest!

For some Sydney Summer inspiration click here.

Autumn; A sparkly rainbow coloured visit to Sydney

If you’re wanting the colours of the rainbow and a sparkly Sydney visit, late February is the start of Madi Gras. Whatever your sexual preference, this particular celebration is an annual highlight. Spanning two weeks of celebrations it culminates in the extravaganza that is the world-famous Parade.  The two-week timetable includes over 100 diverse live entertainment events across theatre, music, cabaret, comedy and burlesque, literature and art events, forums and conferences. 

Shining a global spotlight on Sydney’s LGBTQI community this is a great time to visit. All sizes of the rainbow flag decorate the city. Flying from flag poles, draped out of windows they are even painted on the road.

Started in 1978 by a small group of protestors Mardi Gras today contribute over $40M to the NSW economy. Festivities kick off with Fair Day.  70,000 of the LGBTQI community and their friends and family turn out for a free day of food, drink, live entertainment and over 200 stalls. Join in and ease into the next three weeks with a picnic on the grass and a cold beer. 

Domestic and international visitors join Sydney locals to celebrate Parade. Spectators of all backgrounds, nationalities and sexual orientation line the streets. People gather on rooftops and balconies, spill out of bars and even hang from street lamps to get a better look. If you’re watching from the street, take a milk crate with you – you may need to stand on it to get a view!

With spectacular floats…

….over 12,000 participants and a large amount of sparkle, 200 ‘dykes on bikes’ lead the Parade. Heard before they come into view is the deep rumbling sound of 200 Harley Davidson engines. I was lucky enough to be part of the 2015 Parade on the Beyond Blue float. I experienced the electric atmosphere and overwhelming feeling of love and inclusiveness.  Joining emergency services, the Australian army, corporate organisations and not for profits I dipped my head in blue glitter and jumped in feet first. 

Nothing is too extravagant or too shocking, on this night, anything goes. Sparkles dazzle and bum cheeks peeking from leather hotpants shock. Neon glow sticks litter the air and all shapes and sizes wear more latex and rubber than you’ve seen before. Fireworks go off from rooftops decorating the skies and aromas from food trucks fill the air.

After the dramatic Parade, Sydney puts on the biggest LGBTQI Party in the southern hemisphere.  Headliners over the years have included homegrown stars such as Kylie Minogue and international icons like Cher.

If you visit Sydney this time of year, there are other events such as lunar new year lanterns, parades and night markets. For some inspiration click here.

‘At the going down of the sun and in the morning, we will remember them’:

When your alarm buzzes on April 25th it’s 4 am, chilly and still pitch black. A sense of remembrance and respect has you out of bed and rugged up in minutes. The beauty of a public holiday is the lack of an alarm and a lazy extra hour or two snuggled in bed. Not so for the majority of locals on Anzac Day in Sydney. 

In the half-light of dawn on 25th April 1915 Allied forces launched an invasion at Gallipoli. This was the first major action fought by Australian and New Zealand forces during WW1. Soon after, soldiers in the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps became known as Anzacs. Celebrated since Anzac Day is a public holiday and day of commemoration. 

Anzac Day…

…one of Australians most important national occasions and the epitome of Australian culture. A day of remembrance and reflection but interlaced with fun and another reason to party!  The tradition of rising early to pay respects is a family affair, there is an expectation and acceptance that it’s ‘just done’. I question whether this would happen in the UK. I can’t imagine teenagers waking at the crack of dawn to reflect on an event that didn’t happen in their lifetime. Standing for over an hour to pay respects to fallen, retired and still serving soldiers.  It’s a beautiful and humbling experience to be part of Dawn Service and something I would recommend to anyone visiting Sydney in April.

This is the first outing for most hats and scarves because the autumnal morning is usually crisp. Depending on the popularity of the service will depend on the crowds but some are well crowded by 3 am.  Apart from one year when I was in Bondi and attended the very popular North Bondi Service, I have stayed local and made my way to the memorial on the Corso in Manly.

Manly Dawn Service…

…not huge, the crowd is still significant and representation of all generations. Sending shivers down my spine the bugle call of the Last Post kicks off the service. Followed by a minute’s silence, you can hear a pin drop. An eerie feel to the air the service continues and is a time for quiet contemplation. My favourite part is The Ode of Remembrance. Taken from a poem written by the English poet Laurence Binyon the extract read is: 

“They shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old; Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn. At the going down of the sun and in the morning, we will remember them.”

And the audience responds “We will remember them”.

Time for breakfast…

…RSL’s and other establishments open after dawn service and start pouring schooners and serving sausage sizzles from as early as 8 am.  With the stomach lined and a few celebratory schooners sunk there is time to get to the City for Sydney’s ANZAC day March.  Beginning at 9 am the March is an opportunity for veterans, their families and currently serving men and women to honour those who served. Marching in time to the beat of a bass drum the sound of brass and bagpipes – it is a spectacular occasion. Onlookers line the street clapping and paying their own respects.

Australia never passes over the chance for a sporting event or a party.  Spend the afternoon either at the SCG watching the NRL’s traditional ANZAC Day clash between St George Illawarra Dragons and the Sydney Roosters or at one of many water holes for a game of two up.

Unregulated gambling is illegal….

…in NSW every day of the year except Anzac Day when two-up is acceptable and played in pubs throughout the state. Coins are flipped in the air using a giant paddle with bets laid on whether the coins land face or tail up. The size of the crowd will depend on the popularity of the venue. Whatever the size, get yourself a note and get involved.

Those betting on heads tap the dollar note to their forehead and wait for a tail betting partner to find them. Heads hold the money until it’s claimed. Spot the amateurs with fivers and pros with the fifty’s, with 50/50 odds it’s got to be worth a flutter. Even if you’re not into gambling it’s worth soaking up the atmosphere and enjoying the local hospitality.

As the sun starts to sink…

…the two-up ring dies down but it doesn’t mean Anzac Day has to end. Many bars, clubs and RSLs take advantage of the celebrations. DJs and bands will be playing favourite Aussie & Kiwi tunes until late. If you didn’t fancy waking at 4 am on a public holiday or want to finish the day as you started, make your way to a sunset service in Martin Pace. The service starts at 5 pm, at the going down of the sun.

Click here for more information on Anzac Day and a list of memorial services and marches. 

If you visit Sydney this time of year, there are other events such as The Easter Show, an unique experience to any non-Sydneysider. For some Sydney Autumn inspiration click here.

Visit Sydney in the Winter – A Vivid festival of lights & ideas

As Sydney enters Winter the days are still bright and warm. Yet the evening temperature drops and the sun dips below the horizon before 6pm. An ideal time of year for those wanting to visit this spectacular city without the intense heat. For a period of three weeks across the end of May and beginning of June Vivid Festival is also a reason to entice you. Celebrating innovation and creativity think Hong Kong’s nightly light show on steroids. 

Whatever the tradition light shows have been part of global celebrations for centuries. Vivid is a global competitor when it comes to the light spectacle.  This annual festival of light, music and ideas turns Sydney into a colourful, magic city of projected art and sky filling lasers. Stimulating afternoon lectures, romantic nightly strolls or early evening family excitement. Flashing fairy floss, yummy food trucks and pop up bars. This time of year in Sydney is perfect for all types of traveller there is always something going on.

First taking to the stage in 2009 Vivid began as a Smart light festival for energy efficiency. It’s grown each year to the extravaganza it is today spanning across different areas of the city. Local and international musicians perform. Leading creative thinkers exchange ideas. Impressive dynamic light displays fill each evening, from 6pm its lights on!

Nine precincts across Sydney light up…

…all within walking distance of a main train station. Throughout the years the consistent centre piece has been Sydney’s iconic Harbour.  Projected powerful images on either side of the Opera House sails bring this enchanted building to life.

The Harbour Bridge lights up with luminous changing colours. The MCA turns into a mesmerising canvass of changing facades. Unique light sculptures, lanterns and projections scatter the area. Weekend crowds are excessive with weekday evenings a better option if you can, visit then. Another option is to take to the water and view the lights from a less crowded cruise. There are plenty of choices from neon lit party boats to adrenalin filled jet boats. 

One of the newer precinct additions is Barangaroo. This is Sydney’s newest harbour playground, think London’s Canary Wharf. The regeneration of this disused shipping container wharf is due completion in 2024. It’s already pulling in the visitors. A fascinating project to visit in its own right Vivid adds some magic once the sun disappears. Barangaroo’s location and its cluster of beautiful bars mean it’s a perfect place for a sundowner. Soak up the atmosphere as the sun disappears west behind the Anzac Bridge.

For a genuine and more local experience I recommend the Chatswood precinct. This lively Asian influenced suburb of Sydney is a foodie’s paradise.  Get away from international tourist crowds and rub shoulders with the North Shore locals instead.

If you visit Sydney this time of year, there are other events such as The State of Origin,  Manly Taste Festival and Ramadan Nights. For some Sydney Winter inspiration click here.

Spring; Instagramable blooms, one of Australia’s major sporting finals and a race that stops the nation

The sweet heady smell of jasmine wafts through the air. Magnolia buds burst and the lilac blooms of the jacarandas carpet the city. This is my favourite time of year to visit Sydney. The evenings lighten and start to warm up. The excitement of summer starts to run through Sydneysiders veins. 

Indigenous to Brazil, Sydney’s first jacaranda tree was planted in the Royal Botanical Garden in the late 1850’s. How these trees came to burst into life lining residential streets remains a myth.  There is many an explanation depending on who you ask. My personal favourite is the story of a matron who sent every newborn home from hospital with a seedling. She encouraged parents to plant the seedling and watch it grow along with their child. 

Like tourists and influencers travel to Japan for cherry blossom, Sydney’s jacaranda trees pull in the crowd. During Spring these beloved flowering jacarandas draw in domestic and international visitors. Now due to the increased rise of social media areas of Sydney are under pressure of over-tourism. Spread your love and visit some lesser well-known areas. Wander the backstreets of Paddington or Hunters Hill for a local’s experience.

Some of the city’s…

…tallest buildings are an incredible way to take in the stunning sea of purple. On a clear day you can see bursts of lilac dotting the Sydney skyline. Out across the Western Suburbs towards the Blue Mountains and North past Chatswood. My favourite building for such views is the Tower Building in Australia Square. Owned by local Australian chef Michael Moore, O Bar and Dining is on level 47. This luxury cocktail bar and restaurant revolve showcasing the entirety of Sydney. Free to get in the hour long rotation will cost you a cocktail or stay for longer and treat yourself to dinner. 

Australia holds a remarkable sporting affection and Sydney is no exception. Two other reasons to visit in Spring are the National Rugby League Final and the Melbourne Cup. 

After a 7-month season…

…where 18 National Rugby League teams battle it out for top spot, footie fever grips Australia. The final held in Sydney is a national event. Irrelevant of who’s playing the nation tunes in to watch who will take out the iconic championship. 

A sea of team colours sprawls out along Sydney’s streets and on public transport. Excitement and anticipation fill the air. Pubs and clubs put on sausage sizzles and front rooms, gardens and balcony’s fill as mates arrive. Passion erupts across the city.  Cheers and screams echo the streets and the cheeky ‘Aussie, Aussie, Aussie, Oi, Oi, Oi’ erupts from most establishments.  Whether you are into footie or not the atmosphere of Grand Final Day is a great Sydneyside experience.

A public holiday in Melbourne…

…the Melbourne Cup is Australia’s best-known horse race. Week-long events take over the home city but here in Sydney it’s 3pm on the first Tuesday in November when the city stops. Get your glad rags on, wear that fascinator with pride and party with the locals. Hotels and restaurants put on lunch and drink packages. Bars hire entertainment and boats take to the harbour offering cruise deals. Even take it up a notch and enjoy a nine-race fixture at Royal Randwick Race Course. One thing is for sure, anywhere you go will be showing ‘the race that stops a nation’ at 3pm. 

As spring turns to Summer NRL champions are crowned, bets have been won and lost on the Melbourne Cup and the pavements and roads of Sydney turn to purple. As jacaranda flower’s start to shed their petals the city knows it’s on count down to party season.

If you visit Sydney this time of year, there are other events such as Australia’s largest kite flying festival and Sculpture’s by the Sea. For some Sydney Spring inspiration click here.

Things to do in Cronulla

April 25, 2019 by cbp Leave a Comment

Battle of Sydney’s beaches continued - Things to do in Cronulla

Helpful resources: – The local rag, Cronulla Life Facebook Page, Whileaway Guide,

Bored of hearing about Bondi and Manly?  It’s the argument that divides North & East Sydneysiders.  Which beach is better?  Having lived in Manly for 8 years I’ll always be in the North camp, but what if there is an alternative.  A beach which justified a visit and perhaps offered an even more authentic Aussie experience.  Could Cronulla be exactly that?  The husband and I took a weekend to explore this up and coming coastal suburb to see if it really is a contender.

Located on the Bate Bay coastline, Cronulla is Sydney’s only beach that can be reached by train.  45 minutes from Central station.  Derived from the Aboriginal word kurranulla meaning ‘place of pink seashells’ Cronulla feels less pretentious than other Sydney beaches.

Unlike Manly, there is plenty of parking, even on the hottest summer’s day. Another bonus, most parks are free. In comparison, you’ll pay up to $10 an hour in Manly or Bondi.  Unique to Cronulla is the sheer number of beaches and rock pools to choose from.  7 beaches and 5 rock pools to be precise meaning its Sydney’s longest beach.

Cronulla’s own Spit to Manly

Bondi and Manly have their own famous coastal walks each with stunning views, Cronulla can compete.  Start at Wander Beach and walk the Cronulla circuit.  This stunning coastal walk competes with Spit to Manly or Bondi to Coogee any day.  Make sure you pack plenty of water, sun lotion and wear a hat. It’s a beautiful walk and great example of how many beaches, rock pools and parks you can fit onto one headland. This rocky coastline is well patrolled by lifeguards although the rock pools are not. Be careful if you are bathing when the tide is coming in and waves are smashing.

Flinders & Bass point is halfway around the Cronulla circuit.  At the most southern end of the peninsula stands the memorial to Matthew Flinders, George Bass & Boy Martin.  Whilst out in the Tom Thumb they discovered and named Port Hacking on March 30th, 1796. This special place is idyllic when the sun is shining. Splendid views stretch up the Hacking River, across to the Royal National Park and out to the Tasman Sea. The clear waters surrounding the jagged rocks give way to emerald green deeper areas. Enthusiastic snorkelers interrupt the stillness and sunbakers clutter the rocks like jewels.

Coffee anyone?

If you’re hanging out for coffee, I’d recommend Grind - a true local institution.  Here your tourist dollar really will stay local.  With mis-matching retro style, this place has an electric vibe and enticing aroma of freshly ground beans. The staff are friendly, the people watching is fabulous and the coffee is bloody good! For over ten years owner, Richard Calabro has had this gem. His passion for sourcing and grinding the highest quality coffee shine through.  A great rest break if you’re walking the Cronulla Circuit.

If you’re visiting in the summer and wanting to set up camp, I would steer clear of the main beach. Packed full of sweaty bodies there’s nothing different from any other overcrowded NSW beach. Instead, walk on a little further down the Esplanade to Shelly Beach. Here, there are fewer people, a beautiful rock pool, kids’ playground, and a gorgeous shady park.

Take an ‘Insta’ break

Before leaving the main beach pose for a photo in front of the stunning Insta worthy sandy cliff face.  A perfect backdrop of beautiful layered sedimentary sandstone of yellow and brown. Pay respects to late surfers who rode the waves in days gone by.  Engraved plaques in the cliff remember them.

Another area I’d suggest hanging out is Gunamatta Bay.  A large lush shaded grass area, kids playground and less crowded beach this is where the locals hang.  Located on a large inlet means the netted tidal baths here are calm and wave free. From here you can also catch a ferry to the National park.

For anyone wanting to learn more about the history of surfing in Cronulla head to the library. Located in Central Arcade both walls of the walkway to the library tell the story of 100 years of surf history. The online resource Cronulla Surf Museum is also worth a read.

Recently Cronulla has emerged a hip dining and bar scene.  The Urban List and Timeout are across the newest and coolest places to visit but we went with a local recommendation.  We ate at Little Parrot and had post cocktails at the RSL making sure our dollar stayed local.

And in conclusion…..

Cronulla is a great alternative to Bondi or Manly, it’s accessible and cheap in comparison. Whilst Manly and Bondi fight for the international tourist Cronulla is a less popular choice but more than worthy of a visit.  Rockpools tick.  Surfing tick. Gorgeous beaches tick.  Beautiful and scenic coastal walk tick.  Children friendly tick.  Trendy café scene tick.  Good food tick.   Transport tick.  In conclusion, Cronulla is more than a contender, it’s becoming a competitor to Bondi and Manly.  Give it a go and spread your tourist dollar around, believe me Bondi & Manly get plenty.

Road Trip Through The Upper Hunter

June 17, 2018 by cbp Leave a Comment

Would you drive 4.5 hours for a good steak?!  A road trip from Sydney through horse country!

An anniversary road trip:-

In the year the Lehman Brothers bankruptcy triggered the global recession, we got hitched!  That makes it 10 years ago we said ‘I do’ which we thought called for a celebration.  We wanted something genuine, value for money and that represented adventure!  Friends recommended Graze at Willow Tree Inn, the best Country Pub steak in NSW.  A four and a half hour journey North, we decided to take a road trip!  Back in 2003, we drove 6 hours to feast on crayfish in Kaikoura, New Zealand, so it seemed fitting we took the 4 hour road trip for a steak!

Overnight in Singleton:-

Leaving for our road trip on a Friday night we took the quicker option of the freeway and stopped in Singleton.  If you have more time the other option is the scenic tourist drive.  You could even combine the road trip with a stay in the Hunter Valley - read about my favourite boutique wineries here.  We had not booked accommodation on Friday night so had to wing it!  I like to recommend places I’ve enjoyed staying, eating or visiting but I’m also not in the market for negative reviews.  So I’ll leave it like this, we stayed in one of the independent motels in town and ate in a local family run restaurant.  Neither of which I would jump at the chance of returning to! 

Motel options along the route are plentiful, all looking pretty similar from the outside.  I pretty much think its a gamble as the one we stayed in had some really good reviews on both Trip Advisor and Booking.com?!!  We did, however, end up in The Horse & Jockey for a nightcap.  Here we stumbled across live music, a great atmosphere and a pub full of welcoming locals.  

Brekkie in Scone:-

Not fancying breakfast at the motel (for many reasons!) we cracked on after stopping by one of the world’s largest sundials.  Next stop on the road trip was Scone, breakfast at Kerv on the recommendation of a reliable source born and bred here.  This cute little cafe is described as the thoroughbred of cafes in the horse capital! With artwork, cards, trinkets and deli goods for sale, it had good coffee and a great blackboard of brekkie favourites!  I had the cranberry bircher muesli with fresh rhubarb and yoghurt, Tim had poached eggs on toast.  The highlight was that we got change from $30, never heard of in Sydney!

Road trip beauty:-

The road trip through the Upper Hunter starts to get interesting north of Singleton.  Until then it’s pretty much just freeway.  Yet, post-Singleton it offers a true country road trip experience.  If you want to get even a small idea of the expanse of the land down under this is as good a place to start as any.  Most of the Upper Hunters 18,000 square kilometres is national park, nature reserve and rural use.  Think landscapes dedicated to grazing, cropping dairy farming and horse studs.  Grey chiselled cliffs of Quarry landscape north of Singleton make way for large puffing chimneys of power stations.  Evergreen gum trees and silver scrub land turn into perfectly square, wooden fenced horse paddocks north of Scone.  Browns, reds and golds of autumnal leaf-lined streets turn to lush green farmed fields north of Wingen. The road trip for steak sure is a picturesque one!

An afternoon around Quirindi:-

After 30 seconds in Willow Tree, we knew we needed advice on how to spend the afternoon!  A glass of red wine in front of the fire in the local was tempting but we could do that anywhere anytime!  Apart from a couple of cafes, a gourmet grocery, Willow Tree Inn and the Tourist Information Centre, there isn’t much else!  The lady in the TIC was very helpful and gave us suggestions for our afternoon.

We took the B51 to Quirindi and made our way to ‘Who’d a Thought it Lookout’ for absolutely mesmerising views.  At the top of Ray Carter Drive, magnificent 360-degree scenes span Liverpool Plains, Great Dividing Range and the township of Quirindi.

We stopped off half way down Ray Carter Drive and visited Bobs Shed. Be ready to be amazed!  I wandered through this Aladdin’s cave with my mouth open!!  Starting at 15 years old collecting long necks for cash Bob soaked off the labels and kept them (these are on show). 

His collection is now open to the public and thank goodness it is. It’s too amazing not to be!  At the general store, there are boxes (still full) from the 40s.  The pub is full of bottles, cans and all things pub memorabilia.  There is a ticket office, gas station and two rooms dedicated to Peter Brock.  We were the only ones there so were lucky enough to have Bob host us on our journey through time.  What a special hour and a half.  This one is a must!  Do not pass through Quirindi without going to Bobs Shed!

Driving to Wallabadah cross country we visited the wonderful Memorial Gardens dedicated to the First and Second Fleets.  This incredibly informative monument needs time that we didn’t have as the sun was setting on what had been a wonderful day!  We have Tamworth on the bucket list and this will be a good stop along the way.  If you have a couple of hours, you are interested in Australian history and enjoy wondering around well-kept gardens I would highly recommend a stop here.

Steak in Willow Tree:-

This tiny country town has a population of just over 400 yet boasts the magnificent Willow Tree Inn.  This was our road trip destination!  Originally built in 1913, Charles and Cheryl Hanna bought the pub in 2009.  Since then they have completely renovated it, maintaining all the old country charm by using similar products to the original.  The place is beautiful, read about the Graze story here.  With a small front bar, it’s the back bar that is perfect for an autumn evening.  With comfy leather seats and a roaring fire, this room invites you to sample one of the stunning reds from the excellent wine list.
We stayed in a King Lodge which was heavenly and the epitome of luxury.  Decorated elegantly the lodge was large with the comfiest king bed, gorgeous leather sofa, huge en-suite and the BEST shower I’ve ever experienced!!!
Graze is the bistro on site and at 7.30pm it was time.  The steak we had driven 4.5 hours for, and it didn’t disappoint!  With 100% of staff from the area and 100% of the beef coming from Colly Creek, 2kms up the road, this place is what Community Back Pocket is all about!  We shared a kilo of rib eye on the bone, cooked to perfection. Luckily for us doggy bags provided meant that the hubby had steak for breakfast!!

What I’d go back to The Upper Hunter for:-

As with all weekend road trips, ours was too short!

Hardly knowing it existed before our visit I would definitely return to The Upper Hunter.  I’d like to explore Scone and learn more about the thoroughbred horse stud industry.  Being in the town on race day or for one of the festivals would be fun.  Taking some more time to explore off the highway I’d visit Jerrys Plains and explore some of the national parks.  Tamworth is definitely on the Aussie bucket list so we’ll be sure to pass through again!

The Upper Hunter website is a great resource and one that I’ll be sure to use when I return to Upper Hunter Country.

My favourite boutique wineries of The Hunter Valley

April 14, 2018 by cbp Leave a Comment

The Hunter Valley is Australia’s oldest wine region and one of the most famous. The extension of the freeway created a property and tourism boom in the 1990’s leading to commercialisation of the area.

The Hunter Valley displays pretty wineries, beautiful lakes, gum forests and rolling hills. The vineyards of Cessnock, Pokolbin, Mount View and Allendale are some of my favourite in Australia.  Rather than the commercialised spots, I prefer to seek out less visited options.  But, with over 150 to choose from where do you start?

It can be hard to steer clear of the crowds when visiting The Hunter Valley.  Below is a suggested itinerary for a weekend visiting family owned smaller options that will keep your $ within the community.  The hospitality, welcome and experiences differ hugely from winery to winery.  Put it this way - some were born to host and others not so much.

The Hunter Valley is full of small secret boutique wineries and we are always up for visiting new ones. If you have a favourite - please share with us at Community Backpocket.

Friday afternoon:

1 pm:- Kitchner Poppet Head Reserve

This was our first step on the route to the vineyards of The Hunter Valley.  We wanted a quiet picnic place with a small stroll to walk off our cheese and this place was perfect. 5km south of Cessnock this is the site of the Aberdare Central Colliery.

There is a picnic site next to the dam, a home to black swans and native ducks. There are public toilets and BBQ facilities. There is a 1.2km walk around the dam and a second 5km walk taking in more of the bush, both are well signposted. This was our first step on the route to the vineyards of The Hunter Valley.

3 pm:- Hanging Tree
This is one of our oldest favourite wineries in The Hunter Valley. We first visited in 2013 when Ming (the owner’s daughter) wasn’t even allowed a professional label on her 2012 Reserve Grenache/Merlot. She had to do with Vodka’s (the dog) paw print and Ming’s Selection on a white label! On our first visit, we were lucky enough to have Ming host us, and have returned every time we are in the Hunter! Her wine is now professionally labeled with the Hanging Tree brand and sold for $65 a go! Good on you Ming!
This is one of the prettiest wineries with a rustic charm, beautiful rose lined gardens and welcoming hospitality.

4.30pm:- Mistletoe Wines
What a great little find. We left it a little late in the day as this is not only a winery. These guys have a great art collection to view and a back garden full of interesting sculptures. You need longer here than at most wineries. This is a small family owned business opened in 1989. On our visit, we were lucky to meet three generations involved in running the cellar door. Jessica was our host but introduced us to Mum and Granny! Her 14-year-old sister was also out the back…… plugged into some electronic device like most 14 yr olds!!

Mistletoe Winery has an extensive tasting list with over 20 different wines including whites, reds, sparkling, dessert and fortified. I love this wineries approach.  Passionate about sustainability, environmentally conscious and all about family. They don’t have a wine club and explain why. Their philosophy is that you should be open to drinking lots of different wines, not only theirs! Instead, they encourage you to join their member’s mail list. You can buy wine at club prices but you’re not locked into regular purchases.

 Friday evening:

7.30pm:- Leaves & Fishes
A true local and family option this is one of our favourite places to eat out in The Hunter Valley. Owners Sharon & Damian have lived in the Hunter all their lives and opened the restaurant in 2004. Focusing on seafood with an Asian influence Damian actually rears his own Silver Perch in the lake on the grounds. Their goal is to offer good, fresh food in a friendly atmosphere, which they have got bang on. Book here - it gets busy!

Saturday morning:

10.30 am:- Wynwood
Although recently under new management and thus only 4 wines to taste they were delicious. The guys serving us were knowledgeable and a great craic. Set on over one hundred acres the restaurant ‘Twine” offers panoramic views of the surrounding vine-clad hills of The Hunter Valley. We were so tempted to cancel our lunch booking and come back here for the Aussie BBQ - it sounded fabulous! The added bonus here is the wine-museum with a full history of the winery and winemaking in general. The vineyard has classic Hunter Valley varietals including Shiraz, Chardonnay, Verdelho, Muscat, and Merlot. I bought a bottle of 2014 Reserve Shiraz which I plan to drink with my Dad on my 45th birthday!

11 am:- Drayton’s
The Drayton’s are one of The Hunter Valley’s pioneering winemaking families. This cellar door is still family owned and operated. It has been over one hundred and fifty years since the first Drayton trod on rich Hunter Valley soil. Although I got a distinct feeling of commercialisation and large-scale when walking in, the staff are very welcoming and an absolute scream. We had a hilarious 40 minutes here and tasted a huge array of wines. I walked away with a bargain box of 12 Shiraz for $99. Now in the hands of Max Drayton and his two sons John, and Greg the story is an interesting one steeped in tragedy - read about it here.

12 pm:- Lunch!
Cafe Enzo co-owned by Melissa Blanch and Chef David Warren has recently clocked its 21st Birthday. Set in Pokolbin, the restaurant is styled like a sandstone Tuscan villa. The menu is Modern Australian with an Italian influence. You have the option of dining al fresco when the weather’s warm or gathering around the antique open fireplace on chilly nights. This is a gorgeous recommendation for lunch or dinner. I had the ‘Enzo’ Ceasar Salad that didn’t disappoint!  I would recommend booking - click here for the contact number.

Saturday afternoon:

2 pm:- Tinklers
Tinklers has been run by the same family for over 100 years and we were lucky enough to have Ian Tinkler host us. Over the years Ian, his brother, and father (both named Usher) planted over 35 hectares of vines. They follow conservation farming practices. In 2009 Ian was awarded The Hunter Valley Viticulturalist of the year. Ian’s nephew (also Usher!) is the winemaker and has achieved many accolades within the wine industry. We had a private tasting here and walked away with some gorgeous Shiraz and Verdelho.

3 pm:- McLeish
In 1995, ten years after establishing the McLeish Estate, Bob McLeish and his wife Maryanne opened a cellar door. With an obvious Scottish influence, the tasting room is full of tartan and old sports memorabilia. In 2016 McLeish Wines won World’s Best Semillon at the London International Wine Challenge and Australia’s White Wine of the Year in 2014.

4 pm:- Blueberry Hill
Nowhere better for sunset in The Hunter Valley. A little piece of advice - make sure you’re not pickled so that you actually enjoy it! If you love Pinot Noir then this place is a must. They encourage you to sip then eat a dark chocolate blueberry and sip again - it’s heaven! This stunning little find is as the name eludes to, perched on the top of a small hill overlooking the valley with views out to the Brokenback Range.

We thoroughly enjoyed a tasting here whilst sat under the shade of a large gum tree. Served by the owner, he was great at persuading us to try wines we wouldn’t have normally tasted. I even quite liked the Chardonnay.  A perfect place to end the day. If you’re looking for somewhere to stay, Blueberry Hill is also a B&B with 2 guest rooms, tennis courts and swimming pool. I’ll definitely be back to stay!

Sunday morning:

10.30 am:- Lucy’s Run
Yes, in The Hunter Valley it’s perfectly acceptable to be drinking before 12 pm! I have to say this would be up there with Domaine de Binet in my picks of the weekend. This is the epitome of a true boutique. This basic shed run by Heather & Brad has got it sussed! If you are looking for a genuine local experience with passionate and engaging hosts then this one is not to be missed. Heather & Brad escaped Sydney 3 years ago and have thrown themselves into the Hunter community. I’ll leave them to tell you their story as I wouldn’t do it justice!

11.30am:- Domaine de Binet
Leaving the best till last! Daniel is the most wonderful host. We were lucky enough to rock up when it was quiet and got an off the cuff tour of the whole estate. He showed us where and how the wine is made and stored. I’ve never seen so many barrels of wine in one place! Daniel is exceedingly knowledgeable and passionate beyond words. It’s no wonder he is fast becoming the most recognised young winemakers in The Hunter Valley. Read about his and Natalie’s story here or better even - go visit! The wines pretty good too - well with names such as Le Grand Coq and Crazy Coq what would you expect!

Sunday afternoon:

1pm:- Lunch
If you are lucky enough to have the time I would suggest exiting the wine country via Tourist Drive 33. This is a spectacular scenic drive through the lower Hunter Valley. Following the historic convict trail and The Great North Road this route stretches from Branxton to the Peats Ridge exit on the Pacific Motorway. Mount Broke Wines’ cellar door is located a short 20-minute drive from Pokolbin along Tourist Drive 33. The cellar door is set inside the remnants of an old dairy. This place offers breathtaking views from all aspects. Hand manicured vines stretch across the landscape before meeting the Brokenback Mountain Ranges. The restaurant is the perfect stop for lunch and the rib of beef is my recommendation.  Call and book ahead as this place gets packed.

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