Authentic Khao Lak, experience an authentic local stay.

Thought Khao Lak was just a stretch of Thai beaches? Think again. Here I explore what to do in Khao Lak. I first visited Phuket in 2003 as an inexperienced backpacker. As I embarked on my Asian ‘rite’ of passage as so many did and still do, I hated the inauthenticity of the place even then. So, when someone mentioned it as a perfect halfway destination from the UK my stomach churned.

My husband and I were looking for a halfway location to meet family and Phuket did tick a lot of the boxes. Yet I still couldn’t commit to going back to that place of chaos and commercialisation. After a few curious questions and the outright dismissal of Phuket, a friend suggested Khoa Lak. 

North of Phuket, Khoa Lak is the name given to the series of villages dotted along the Takua Pa and Thai Mueang District coastline. A great location for first-timers to Thailand. This worked well as it was my parent’s first trip to Asia. 

It’s pretty easy to line the pockets of the locals here. There are many independently-owned businesses. Yet, for me, authenticity was still lacking. On first observation it’s hard to pinpoint whether the authentic Khao Lak of years gone by is still there.

My mission was to find it.

A community that has had to survive tragedy is understandably changed forever. This touristy area has been rebuilt post the 2004 Tsunami to cater to western tourists. On first impression, this is a resort lined coast with garish neon bar-lined strips of Khuekkhak and Bang Niang. But I was on a pursuit to experience authentic Khao Lak.

Below are 12 tips on how to experience the authentic Khao Lak and reasons to visit this beautiful area.

1. Locals like Wandee

Anthony Bourdain once said – “Drink heavily with local’s whenever possible”. Not sure I’d recommend drinking heavily but getting to know the locals I’d definitely recommend. Locals know the inner workings of a location. The hidden secrets, short cuts, the best places for food, where to dance until the sunrise, quiet beaches.

Where the local’s hangout is where you’ll find authenticity. 

We were lucky enough to stay with Wandee at Les Fleurs House. A small 10 room guest house with two bungalows for rent. We arrived early at 7.30 am and met with the most affectionate of welcomes from Wandee and her nephew King. 

Les Fleurs is an intimate and tranquil space located up a side road off the main strip of Khuekkhak. Surrounded by vivid pink bougainvillea and Thai hospitality I felt the pace immediately slow. Feeling relaxed from the moment we arrived, we luckily called this home for the first week of our stay. Read about Wandee’s story here and her advice on getting the best out of Khao Lak.

2. Supporting a community rebuilt

26th December 2004. It’s hard, almost impossible to imagine the devastation and chaos of Khao Lak that day. This coastline was the hardest hit area of Thailand but has done a superb job of bouncing back. 

The beached Navy boat 2.5km inland from Bang Niang Beach is a distressing reminder of the force of the Tsunami. It’s worth going to see this for perspective but nothing more. We found the area spurious.  Cynical that a memorial in the centre of the busiest area of Khao Lak is only there to attract tourists and make a quick buck. Rather than to genuinely pay respect to those who lost lives and livelihoods. 

Many sun-bleached makeshift stalls have set up along the roadside selling souvenirs under the guise of faux museums. Owners of the stalls shove horrific and somewhat gruesome pictures of the dead in your face. The memorial itself is sad but not in the way it should be. It looks unfinished, unloved and forgotten.

Yet, whilst out exploring on the moped we stumbled upon many other Tsunami memorials. Each village seems to have its own. These range from huge beautiful wave-like sculptures to smaller intimate shrines. Our favourite was Ban Nam Khem Tsunami, Memorial Park. A beautiful concrete wave sculpture lined with intricate terracotta tiles and blue fleur de lis. Each tile has an individual memorial plaque for those who lost their lives. Walking through the wave paying our respects was a somber yet moving experience. Met at the end of the wave with a large Buddha statue in the ‘Calling The Earth to Witness’ posture. A fitting posture meaning the moment of enlightenment. 

 3. Community-Based Tourism 

16 years on and inspiringly many communities have created new opportunities from the tragic situation.  In response to the 2004 tsunami Community-Based Tourism groups have been set up to help aid recovery and generate local income.  

Blue signs directing to such groups dot the main highway through the Khoa Lak area.  Activities from homestays to fisherman tours to vegetable plantation visits.  We didn’t have time to experience any of these but will make it a priority when we go back.  I like the idea of Community Based Tourism hopping through the region when we have more time on our hands.  

Khaolak.net gives a good overview of groups in and around the area.

4. Wandee’s Foodie Tours & hidden retreats like Banraigarden Home 

We may not have got to experience any Community Based Tourism groups; yet we did get to experience ‘A hidden fisherman’s trail’ with Wandee. This is great value for money and a fun trip whilst experiencing local life as a fisherman. The magical half-day tour also included lunch cooked for us at Banraigarden Homes.

This idyllic oasis in the middle of a rubber forest is like a real-life Monet. The different textures and thousands of different shades of green pop with colour from a variety of different flowers. The gardens are breathtakinglybeautiful, artistically landscaped and full of tasty treats. 

From what I can find on the web Banraigarden Home has two Facebook pages – one as a restaurant and one as a lodge. With limited Thai and only by searching in English this is all I can find. You could view this as devastating. This absolute diamond of a place doesn’t come up in any search for accommodation in Khao Lak. Or you could see it as a unique opportunity. There are few completely hidden gems off the tourist track left unfound and this seems to be one. 

By whichever means you get in touch with Banrai Gardens what matters is that you do. Escape life for a few days and stay in one of their beautiful bungalows. 

5. Paknnika Cooking School

Stemming from their Buddhist values, having time with family to relax is very important to Thai people. Food plays a big part and is heavily incorporated into holidays and celebrations. I fell in love with Thai food the first time I tasted the unique yet distinctive flavours. So, the chance of learning to cook some of Thailand’s greatest dishes was a no-brainer. Paknnika Cooking School on-site at Les Fleurs House was a perfect choice. We had the added bonus of a discount as we were staying here. 

Picking my Mum and Dad up from their nearby resort, our first stop was to a local market to collect ingredients. Wandee introduced us to the smells of different curry pastes. Red, yellow, green, massman, penang and prawn – you name it we smelt it. She pointed out local veggies and fruit, explaining what the unknown to us were and how they featured in Thai cooking. Introducing us to locals along the way we picked up ingredients for our dishes. 

The cookery school is the representation of basic yet beautiful. An open-air kitchen with a bright lime green wall. A bamboo roof and large lobster pot style lampshades. 

Gathered round a huge wooden table each cook has an individual station. Each of us had a chopping board, utensils and pretty handmade aprons, cloths and tea-towels in all types of gingham

Following Wandee’s instructions we managed to cook up an authentic Thai storm. Green curry, drunken prawns, stir fried pork and sticky mango rice were amongst our creations. Feeling proud, we followed Buddist values and took time out to relax as a family and enjoy the southern Thai flavours of our feast.

6. Phu with a view

Whether it’s during the day with views stretching for miles out over the Andaman Ocean and along the coastline of Khoa Lak or as the sun is dropping and the sky filling with those oranges and pinks of a Thai sunset this place is a Khoa Lak must visit. 

Decorated with colourful bunting floating in the breeze the 180-degree view over the Andaman Ocean takes your breath away.  Red and yellow lilies line the veranda style restaurants patio and monkey statues don lost property shades left from previous diners.  During the day chose to sit under or bask in the Khoa Lak sun, for sundowners I would advise the outer table to get the best view.  Just don’t forget the mosquito spray!  

It’s a steep walk up a track to earn your dinner or if you’re in true holiday mode they offer a pickup service from the surrounding area in an air-con ute.  We chose pick-up and a walk down.

7. Beach and waterfall hopping

The independence that accompanies hiring a moped is invaluable to us. We are lucky that Tim has ridden motorbikes for 40 years and feels safe riding a moped. I wouldn’t advise anyone not having ridden before to take off without any experience. There are plenty of taxis that will take you up and down the coast for a fee. 

Heading North up through Khao Lak signposts show waterfalls to the right and beaches to the left. Some are easier to get to than others. Be patient and if you think your gone wrong keep going. The likelihood is it’s further down a dirt track than you anticipated! 

Some waterfalls are well visited. Others almost forgotten and forlorn but all beautiful in their own way. Some you can swim in, others only deep enough to plunge in and some nothing more than a trickle. Two of our favourites were Sai Rung and Lampi. 

At Sai Rung a carpark bar services tables situated in the middle of the river. There’s something pretty special about sipping ice cold Chang whilst the fresh mountain water flows over your toes. 

Lampi is within Khao Lam Pi – Hat Thai Mueang National Park. With four floors it’s pretty impressive and the pool is definitely big enough for a swim!

No surprise that our favourite beaches were not stop-offs on any tour.  For every perfect piece of paradise, we stumbled upon we also visited busy, commercialised tourist traps. My advice would be to explore. 

8. Hidden beachside bars

And whilst we are on the topic of beachside bars we came up with a theory. The older and more sun-bleached the sign on the main road, the better the bar. As Tim rode, I kept my eyes open for battered signs, some led us on a wild goose chase, others came up with the goods.

Set back from the beach in a clearing under pine trees Poo Chum Bar and Restaurant was one of our favourite finds. Heading North out of Khuekkhak take a left signposted for Khao Lak Tropicana Beach Resort. 

Bamboo tables, plastic chairs, multi-colour parasols Poo Chum reminded me of Thailand gone by. Nothing shouts ‘holiday’ more than re-hydrating with a young coconut served with a purple orchid. Please remember your re-usable straw from https://earthsider.com

What friends had described as idyllic we found too busy. It’s all about personal preference. One very well-known spot that we did love was Memories Beach Bar. This relaxed and unpretentious thatched bamboo beach bar has a location to die for. Smack bang on the pristine white sand facing out over the Andaman Sea. This is Instagrammers heaven, think sunsets and swings.

9. A daily massage

No surprises that massage parlours make up every other storefront and scatter the beaches. Following the basic rule of supply and demand any type of massage is cheaper in busier areas. Yet it depends on what you mean by value for money. A couple of extra dollars seems well worth it whilst indulging in a head to toe relaxation massage lying on a deserted beach. 

It’s easy to fall into a daily routine, reflexology one day, traditional Thai massage the next. Human nature will see you falling into the habit of returning to the same parlour. I encourage spreading the wealth. Be aware and visit a different one each day to ensure the distribution of your tourism dollar.

10. Local food markets

Like most places in Thailand there are plenty of markets to visit around Khao Lak. Try and seek out the more authentic as some such as Bang Niang are very touristy. We loved visiting Khao Lak-Bang Niang Fresh Market as part of our Paknnika Cooking School experience with Wandee. 

Here, an array of vegetables organised by colour. Purple aubergines, pink radishes, orange carrots, red chillies, brown potatoes, white onions. A sea of all shades of green, cauliflower, lettuce, cabbage, herbs, spinach, salad leaves. A rainbow of fruit, of all shapes, sizes and textures. Piles of all kinds of spices that tingle your nose as you walk past. Fresh meat and fish butchered and filleted to your request. And of course, the scary plastic stall that you find in every Asian market. Every ‘single use’ plastic you can imagine. Take away cartons, lids, cups, cutlery, bags of every shape and size.

If you love a local traditional market, Takua Pa is a destination you should add to your itinerary. Every late Sunday afternoon the old quarter buzzes to life as a traditional street market. Locals are friendly and encourage you to try local food. It’s well worth the 40-minute ride north of the main tourist areas of Khao Lak.

11. Outdoor Yoga 

A key to getting under the skin of a community is to continue life to some extent as you would at home. Lucky to live on Manly Beach in NSW, Australia I have a weekly beach yoga class on a Wednesday. Where possible I try and seek out a similar class when on holiday or travelling. 

Knowing that the locals know of the best options, I asked Wandee who suggested ‘Just In Yoga’. After a couple of messages over Facebook I had booked my session on the beach and what a treat it was. 

Justine offers private sessions at your own hotel terrace, by the beach or at the Studio. I chose to practice under a pergola overlooking Nang Thong Beach. 90 minutes of pure indulgent yoga practice and meditation was delightful. The session was perfectly tailored to my ability and requests. 

12. Koh Koh Khao, Samui 30 years ago!

On recommendation from a local, we rode to Koh Koh Khao and what a perfect little Island find this was. In 2015 I returned to Koh Samui after 15 years and burst into tears. The unspoiled, beautiful, paradise island I remembered had turned into over commercialised chaos. 

Koh Koh Khao was even less developed than Samui back in 2000. In parts sad and derelict, the inhabited charming parts make up for it. If we were traveling through and hadn’t got a base back in Khuekkhak we would have lingered here for a while. Of that I’m certain.

A quirky five-minute longboat ride from Nam Khem pier for us and our mopeds cost 60 bhart. Welcomed to Koh Koh Khao by friendly locals the small pier-side village is small. Nothing more than a couple of shops and restaurants we instantly loved the vibe.

As we rode around the island it was obvious to see the change in the environment. Savannah like grasslands replaced jungle and hornbills replaced people. This is a place to escape western life. Next time we visit we will be sure to join Andaman Discoveries Community Based Tourism Homestay. For more about Community Based Tourism read our guest article by Charlotte from Fair Tourism here.