Best things to do in Khao Lak
Wandee, founder of Pakinnaka’s Cooking School tells us how to discover Khao Lak like a local and the best things to do in Khao Lak.
Tell us the story behind Les Fleurs and Pakinnaka’s Cooking School. What was the inspiration?
The idea was I wanted to have my own place. A community area that people can come and spend time A place for the real traveller. Good rooms and good facilities. Everything you need that is important for life but not luxury so that it keeps the cost down. For example, that is why we do not have a swimming pool.
My dream was to create a quiet and peaceful space. One where people can enjoy and talk and have local experiences. I want to support the local community. It’s important to give good benefits to my staff, enough salary, holiday and downtime in low season. All my staff have a month off paid in the down season to go back and see their family.
Les Feurs has been around for six years. First I rented a building out down the road. It turned out I could only rent it for 3 years and I wanted somewhere longer term. I got talking to the sister of a friend who owns a laundry business and she owned this building. She said I could rent it for 10 years, so I moved Les Fleurs here. After 3 years she wanted to sell it, so I went to the bank, got a loan and bought it. The first and second year I struggled to keep up payments but today it is now successful.
I’ve always loved cooking but knew I didn’t want to be a chef. I want people to enjoy time cooking with me so set up Pakinnaka’s Cooking School.
What did you do before you created Les Fleurs and Pakinnaka’s Cooking School? How did your previous life influence the business you have today?
I was born in Nakhon Si Thammarat on the East coast of Southern Thailand where my family still live. Then I studied to become a journalist and worked in Bangkok. To do well in journalism you have to move to Bangkok. As Assistant Editor of ‘Tropical Magazine’, I got to travel, mostly through South East Asia. I fell in love with travelling and got to visit Canada, New Zealand, Russia and Europe. I actually wrote a pocketbook on New Zealand, but the publisher rejected it.
My passion is to travel and spend time with the local people. I like to get to know the culture well and get to know and understand the lifestyle.
When I got back from Italy, I decided I needed to leave city life. I moved to Khao Lak and became an Executive General Manager in a big hotel. This was a convenient job and a way out of Bangkok. I’d had enough of city life after ten years.
Why Khao Lak? You could teach cooking anywhere in the world, what is it that you love about living in Khao Lak?
It is very peaceful and far from everything. Not as many people reach this area as much as they do Krabi and Phuket. I think it’s a sensible place to have a business as it will get busier in the future.
Here you can enjoy fresh air and sea. This is hard to find in Thailand anymore. Even though we are quiet in the low season, the cooking school can still be quite busy. I wanted to present a beautiful part of Thailand to visitors whilst still supporting the community. Khoa Lak enabled me to do this.
Through your tours and cooking school, you have many partnerships. On what basis have you built up symbiotic relationships in the area?
Actually, pure coincidence. For example, the Fisherman’s Trail started with me thinking of something I could do with a Goat Farm! I was searching for something very authentic. We eat a lot of goats so I went to see whether I could partner with the Goat Farm. When I got there. I bumped into Bang Lam, he was carrying crabs. He told me that the Goat Farm flooded and so they were now fishing and finding crab. During the rainy season, the fishermen are quiet, so I wanted to help subsidise them through this. As I started to talk to Bang Lam I realised how full of knowledge he was. He was full of fun and I wanted to show the tourists the charm of him and the area.
What impact did the 2004 Tsunami have on this area of Khao Lak?
I was not here then; I was in Bangkok. It was very bad. The community lost everything. Families were lost. Houses were lost. But the community came together. The place had to re-build, tourism is a good income, so everything got built around this.
How do you relax, what would you recommend to travellers to do to relax in Thailand?
Surfing and travelling. If I stay local, I will surf at Memories Beach Bar. I also enjoy hiking and do this in Krabi. There is a beautiful place called Khao Ngon Nak which I would recommend. It’s about 3 hours from here.
As much as I can, I go back to see my family which is about a 4-hour drive from here. I enjoy playing the guitar with friends, sitting and drinking. Couch Surfing Hangouts are a great way to meet like-minded people. I have used this application all over the world.
Where’s your favourite place for breakfast, lunch and dinner in Khao Lak?
Cocktail Bar for drinks, I like the atmosphere. Although local people don’t tend to drink out. We gather at home as it’s less expensive.
Authentic food stalls in Taka Pa, this is where I take my food tasting tour. It’s about 40-minute drive from here and is a local town you should visit.
Are there any local bands or musicians you would suggest visitors look up and where’s best for live music?
There are not really any local cultural bands, but live pop music most nights in some bars. I would recommend going to Build Market. There is always a free local band playing and you can get something to eat and drink. It is more authentic than at Bang Niang Markets.
When’s the best time to visit Khao Lak in your opinion?
Nov – April otherwise a lot of things close down. In the down season, it’s just people passing through.
If you were a Khao Lak visitor what would be your top tip not to miss?
There are many beautiful spots in Khao Lak. Rent a motorbike and ask the guest house where you are staying where the best places are to visit. Take the map and explore. You have to be a real traveller, don’t force it. Go with the flow and you will find beautiful places. Get to know the locals and ask questions. Let them take you to the best places.
What’s next on your bucket list?
This is a hard question, I want to go everywhere. My plan is to go to all the countries that have sun – I don’t like the cold. If I was to say one place, I think India. I’d like to go hiking in India, do yoga in India. I like the idea of visiting all the temples in India and the Buddhist way of life, it’s very peaceful.
What’s your best piece of advice to tourists on how to ‘keep the baht local’?
Be aware. I don’t think travellers have the intent not to spend locally. It’s about education. On my tours, I educate people on how they can support the locals. I tell them if what they are going to buy is authentic. Advising if the money will stay in the local economy. I show my guests my favourite products and show them where to buy from. It’s then up to them if they buy. Most people want to encourage this and are supportive. They understand and want to support the local community. My advice to travellers will be to ask, educate themselves and then chose if they want to buy.
What cultural/behavioural advice (if any) would you give that would help visitors to Khao Lak?
We have a very free country and not very strict like other places. I would say though that travellers should respect elders. Pay more attention to the elders, say Sawadee to the elders. Behave well and have good manners like not putting your feet on the table.